China's roads

A voyage of discovery

A reporter who explored China’s bigger and lesser roads and found treasure

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1-8 of 8
Feb 26th 2010 5:49 GMT

I've been an admirer of Peter Hessler's writing and his empathetic descriptions of the lives of China's "common people" (laobaixing) ever since I read River Town.

I can't wait to get my copy of Country Driving, not least because I look forward to comparing notes with Peter Hessler.

Having driven over 70,000km in China's countryside, I can attest that there is no better way (short of walking or bicycling) to get to know China. And if the driving is done in China's South-West - that is, in provinces such as Sichuan, Yunnan, or Tibet - then one discovers not only a side of China that is different from that usually reported, but also one that is beautiful.

Since I have not yet read Peter Hessler's new book, I can for now only comment on The Economist's review of it:

- yes, statistically speaking, China's roads are among the world's deadliest, but everyone knows that statistics hide detail: driving in and around China's large cities where traffic is dense and manic is, I am confident to say, more dangerous than driving on empty roads in the highlands of Tibet or on the back roads of Yunnan.

- non-residents *can* drive in China with a temporary China driving license (valid for up to 3 months). This temporary driving license was introduced by China's authorities in January 2007 expressly for the purpose of driving holiday tourism.

- I prefer maps to GPSs because - Luddite, I! - they give me an overview of the region that I am traveling through in a way that GPSs don't. (Also, there is something special about touching, even smelling, paper.) That said, I do use a GPS in China, mostly for in-town travel because, just like the reviewer, I find it invaluable, and it works very well in China. I've heard about the concern that Peter Hessler has - namely that one might be accused of doing illegal surveying work when one is in possession of one of these gadgets - but in realty I've never been stopped or asked about using my GPS unit. Dashboard mounted GPS units are so common in China these days that it is unlikely that the police would ask one to dismantle and remove what comes with the rental car.

As regards Peter Hessler building up extraordinary trust with locals, I am not surprised. He appears to be a humble man who speaks fluent Chinese. I've yet to meet a Chinese person in the countryside of China who does not - either by nature or by tradition - open up over time to a man like this.

Peter Schindler
Find me on the road in China

Feb 28th 2010 11:12 GMT

Hessler has a funny way of looking at everything Chinese. In his interview w/ Bloomberg he said Chinese r good at math bec they're good at rote memory studies ---huhhh??? What kind of logic is that.
Somethin only the rotten US educational system produces. It's this fear of the Chinese prowess in math & science that's keepin the Americans' mud slinging.

vc_sasc wrote:
Mar 1st 2010 11:10 GMT

I hope this will be an another extraordinary book to understand China -people,place and little politics as foreigner.Of course -ROADS as well.
Eager to read.Heartful Thanks for review. By the by :Peter Schindler's journey and points - very useful.Wow !

funnyabalone wrote:
Mar 2nd 2010 12:44 GMT

An admirable work that he is doing.

I wonder too why there no road travelling culture, probably because the public transit for most towns and routes are decent enough, and road travel does not make much economic sense (gas and tolls ain't cheap there).

I would suggest Peter take a trip in Tibet next time. It would be a great experience, you have to be a tough guy because lost in there without a guide probably means death, but the rewards are also amazing, had a buddy did just that, his pictures are as good as from National Geographics.

Macheal wrote:
Mar 3rd 2010 8:07 GMT

Dear god!I'm really curious about when he came to China.Today most drivers(including foreigners)use GPS,so what is he afraid of? I do hope the writer can hold a neutral altitude toward the unfamiliar culture.

Floatingpoint wrote:
Mar 3rd 2010 2:38 GMT

It seems that the trips took place during 2001-2007. It's quite some time ago, measured against China's recent development speed. So, worries about GPS and maps are understandable.

Mar 3rd 2010 3:46 GMT

The funny thing about the book is that off-road hinterland China is totally unknown, mysterious and exotic for young urban Chinese too. Due to the vast infrastructural investments of the past decade China is gradually opening up - internally for this time. In the long-run this internal opening up might have as dramatic and positive impact on the world as the external one (made by Deng Xiao-ping).

Mar 11th 2010 2:42 GMT

Dear VC_SASC, glad you like my thoughts.

Funnyabalone, I've driven in Tibet several times. It is neither scary nor difficult. See www.ontheroadinchina.com/nokiadiscoverchina and http://www.ontheroadinchina.com/tours/tibetan-highlands-16d

Cheers,

Peter

Back to top ^^
1-8 of 8
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